ilbra

Pilbara


Before leaving Broome I decided to ask at a different Cafe about vege oil, they said "sure take as much as you like", wandering out through the back door I was greeted by 800 litres of fuel ... I mean waste vege oil .... so with delight I filled my containers :-) ... all ready for our trip to Karijini

Happy to be out of Broome ... this seemed to us to be a town existing as a launch platform to see regions further afield and not much else to stir a desire to stay ...

Cape Kerauden at the southern end of Eighty Mile Beach was a welcomed surprise, we loved the scenery - rocky beaches on the north side and tidal mud flats with mangroves (and crocs) on the south side of the point. After setting up camp I wandered up on a small cliff edge on the mangrove side of the point. We head that sharks were common on this part of the coast, and within a few minutes I saw two small sharks cruising in the near-shore waters. Swimming was less tempting afterward, although crocs were also on the list of deterrents.

Port Hedland region with it's severe mining industry added to our inspiration to move onward to Karijini as quickly as possible. We meet a young French couple on the road who worked here for 3 months, they were certainly in a celebratory mood on their first night away from Port Hedland. We shouted "Freedom !!" to the winds together with huge smiles.

Karijini lived up to our expectations, rich in cultural stories and refreshing for the senses. The oldest rocks in the world are here with huge interest from the surrounding mining industry because it contains the richest source of iron-ore in the world. Signage at the National Parks suggested this pressure is likely to see the protection of cultural and conservation values to be compromised in the future. Although I am guessing the fossil fuels required to run the iron ore industry will become a competing interest first.

The gorges and waterfalls were inspiring, the iron rich rocks almost looked as if it had already been processed into steel. Apparently magnets will stick weakly to some of the rocks here. We spent an afternoon bathing at .... falls and fern pool, dipping in the cool waters and re-warming on the baking rocks. Fern pool sounded wonderful and signage requested to quietly enter the waters and refrain from making loud noises as respect for the cultural significance of the pool. They provided a ladder into the deep pool to aid in quietly entering the waters. I can only imagine how the ambience of the place would be if people choose to respect the traditional carers request. As we readied ourselves for a swim, Several people turned up drinking alcohol and shouting loudly, jumping off the landing, also high off the rocks above the waterfall dive bombing into the waters and encouraging others to join them. Access above the waterfall is prohibited by National Parks. Perhaps they did not read the request?

Back at camp we meet a couple who suggested how great Millstream National Park was and now encouraged to travel here. They had aligning views on the education systems commonly in place in Australia it did not take long to connect on many other life values in our conversations. It is refreshing to meet more people on the road who held similar ethics. We really enjoyed the way they interacted with Kaiden, really drawing out who he is rather than telling him who they think he might be. We may see them again some time on the East coast?

Circular Pool was another fantastic gorge swimming area, unfortunately being here on a busy weekend, request to respect this sacred site by quietly entering the waters and staying quiet went unheard or ignored.

Next was the Weano Gorge area, where we meet a cyclist, who had been travelling now for eight months and virtually had followed the same route we had done to get to Karijini. The last water point had a broken windmill pump, so we filled his bottles and chatted about many things. Kaiden really enjoyed his company and shared his passion for cycles. Our neighbours from the camp turned up - a retired couple, Jack and Jill (no jokes), these guys were really switched on. They had children about the same ages as ourselves. They also connected with Kaiden and Jamala in compassionate ways, really listening to them and appreciating them for who they were, it was heartening to see.

The gorges in this area were amazing, much deeper, steeper and narrower with the end sections involving abseiling and rock climbing (my equipment was all back in the storage shed .... boo hooo). None-the-less Kaiden loved climbing the ladder and being in the back pack while I climbed around some tricky traverses. Nicole was much more nervous with Jamala on her back and slippery shoes, Jamala was smiles all the way ! ... I hope the photos can kind of tell the storey about how amazing these gorges were. Both these gorges we shared the company with cyclist - Graeme, at both Kermit’s Pool and Handrail pool ... to go any further with the kids was too dangerous.

Next we went to Millstream, wow what a surprise. A great swimming hole at the door step, with a great diversity of plant and bird life. Again this is a very significant place for indigenous people.

We had the camp ground to ourselves for the first day - paradise, nestled in among Snappy gum, Millstream palms and paper bark riparian ... ahhhhhh. We will not forget this place in a hurry. The second day a few more people showed up to bath in the delights of this oasis, thankfully they did not detract from the quiet experience of the place.

Cape Range here we come ! (Gnarloo is getting closer ... better find me some wax)

Cape Leveque !!

Photos: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=151713&id=616999551&l=7446c18c88


After a night in Broome we were back ont he road and on our way north. First Quondong Beach a free camping bush area - it was fantastic, we had the whole place to ourselves !! On the way , we again we came to the help of a family broken down, it was dissapointing to hear several people passed them without assisting ?! - They had a blown radiator hose. Next we came across a bogged 2wd van, then on the rough part of Cape Leveque Rd we were the first to arrive at the site of a 4wd van that had rolled. The passengers and Driver we all ok, a bit shaken (no pun intended), the owner only had the van for two weeks.

Cape Leveque - WOW WOW WOW - we loved this place, stunning. www.ardi.com.au

Not only did we connect with the place, we connected quickly and easily with the people staying there. There were many (mis)adventurous stories shared along with the love of the land. Many of the people camping here had young children up to about 13 years old. We really enjoyed connecting with our neighbouring campers with 3 older boys with their widely (wildly) bright eyes and strong presence. They all had done a lot of travelling from a young age, perhaps unschooled - I wanted to ask and got side tracked.... the family did seem to be tuned into natural learning.

At Cape Leveque the humidity kicked in as we were surrounded by water. Along the journey I had thought we aclimatised quickly as 38 degrees below seemed comfortable after doing several bush walks with temps reaching past 45 degrees. Back at Emerald Beach I think we would have a complete meltdown with continous temps in the high 30's.... I was going to write about the Gibb and the gorges .... might save that for our return....

Anyway, back in Broome as a stepping stone for the next adventure and hoping for more "Cape Leveques"... where to next? ... 80mile beach then Karajini... Dampier? or Exmouth...

Gibb River Rd

After two days of chasing car bits and putting the back end of the car back together in Kununurra we headed for our trip across the Gibb River Rd. First stop was El Questro Station. We were surprised at the conditions of the road, so smooth compared to the other dirt rods we have travelled. After an easy drive to ELQ station and exorbitant fees for entry and camping, we swam in the nearby water hole ready to explore the station we have heard so much about.

We started the next day at Zebedee springs, these were at a wonderful temperature for the morning - about 30 degrees and thankfully much cooler than Dalhousie Springs. We lazed around under the shady palms in the crystal clear waters and watched people come and go. Next we went to Moonshine gorge which entailed 4 wheel driving across sand, rocks and creek crossings. This was enough to see Nicole a little nervous. After an enjoyable swim in the water hole, I suggested to Nicole that she may like to drive. - and she was willing !! Nicole managed the creek crossings and track with ease, and was building confidence with off road driving.

For the afternoon we decided to check out look out on the station. The descriptions of the trail really gave Nicole the jitters. Away we went with a steep creek crossing and steep low range accent we were greeted with spectacular views. Again, I suggested to Nicole she may like to drive back, this time it was really a tongue in cheek suggestion. Nicole said yes !? ... Nicole smoothly drive our car to the bottom of the hill, and negotiated the steep turn that was sure to see us roll the car sideways down into the gorge to our peril ;-) ....

Keen to leave ELQ and get back into the bush camping, we packed early and we on our way west. After 100km or so we mentioned to each other how smooth the Gibb River Road was... surely it is much worse at other times of the year?... 10 mins later I feel a wobble in the trailer - perhaps a flat, I hit the brakes a bit and BANG ... oh... and BANG, and another bang and the sound of the trailer dragging and wheels locked up .... crap !

We got out of the car ... HHHHMMMMmmmmm ... it did not look that great.... the tongue that holds the tow ball snapped off, looking back, a hinge off the camper top had also broken and twisted to the side. Next I heard air coming out of a tire and saw that the wheel was to the rear and jammed up under the trailer....eerrrr.... the axle had come off the springs and caused allsorts of havoc !! A quick assessment I noted the parts I needed to get the trailer back to Kununurra.

Back to Kununurra, dropped Nicole and kids off at a place with cabin accommodation. Kaiden and Jamala were over the moon to be in a small house with cupboards, stove, and all that stuff. While they enjoyed the spa and pool, I set off back to the trailer to attempt to get it back into town for repairs. On the drive out, I had music going, the sun was going down. Soon Pink Floyd song came over the radio "Wish you were here", two brolgas glided along side of the car to my left and on my right the Cockburn ranges started glowing orange with the sun set. Yep, I wish any of my friends were here, I could not ask for much more, it was brilliant !!

A new Reality set in as I pulled in next to the trailer, there was not much light left in the day and had to work fast to take advantage of it. I managed to get the axle seated back on the springs with a bit of hacksawing, grunting and levering ... and before complete darkness, Soon I was fiddling about in the dark, loosing bits and doing stuff with a torch in my mouth. I needed to get the trailer up high with both wheels off the ground to persuade the axle to be back in the centre so that the tyres did not rub..... I was just getting out an air jack when a car came by and offered help ... YES !! ..... with a seconded jack and some helping hands we had the trailers wheels turning again within about an hour.

After enjoying an extraordinary moonrise above the Cockburn ranges on the way back, I arrived back in Kununurra at about 11:40pm totally knackered. A cold beer was in order.

Two days later the trailers springs and axle was replaced, and was a story in itself to arrange and find the right parts. A common story I found in the caravan parks - as some people had been waiting weeks to have their cars repaired !

Will write again soon about the Gibb River Rd and the gorges, we are now in Broome waiting for a fire to pass as we can not travel north from Broome to Cape Leveque until it is under control. This gives us a chance to have the camper trailer top welded properly so that it seals again.

photos to come....

Our remainder of time at Uluru was fantastic, and really loved the close up wandering around the base. So many stories (Tjukurpa) and more intrigue.

Did I mention about the price of Coopers beer at Uluru? ... after a hot walk in the afternoon, I thought I would really enjoy a cold beer. I searched the car and trailer there was none to be found. So I made a quick visit to the bottle shop, and to my surprise a 6-pack of Coopers was $57, I scanned my eyes down the price list thinking perhaps a beer of less quality .... the cheapest was a light beer at $38 for a 6-pack. Water suddenly was a lot more appetising and thirst quenching.

Back to Alice and a bit more car maintenance etc, and simply re-organising, re-stocking, washing so forth. Also a quick dash around for more vege oil. I went straight to the places I knew that have provided to others in the past. Two of the restaurants "threw out" their oil the day before !! (one place threw out over 100 litres), the next two said they now give their oil to the boys from "The Grease Monkeys". The Grease Monkeys I assume are a new local group onto the idea of using waste vege oil as fuel - they do not collect any fat/lard/palm oil. HMMMMmmmm 80Litres of vege oil is all we have and we were about to head through the Tanami. One day out from collection.

Tanami
Strong head winds showed up once again at the beginning of a long stretch. This means going through a more fuel. We headed off through another ever changing desert, flowers, green shrubs and trees, much spinifex was in seed and looking great. All this green was set against a variety of brown, red, orange and quartz rich soil and rocks. The terrain changed from hilly to rocky and flat. We drove and drove and drove.... stopping for lunch and dinner. After dinner at a reasonably comfortable road stop, we decided to drive in the remaining light of the day and camp at the next rest stop. Well, that never really came, once darkness feel, we drove for hours never really seeing any where to pull over with enough flat space for our camper. Onwards we when past the turn off for Rabbit Flat and coming close to a camel on the side of the road - not something I would really like to run into at 80km/h !!. Then wearily we were in reach of Wolfe Creek.

Wolfe Creek it was, we were getting very low of fuel, the vege oil tank was empty, and the diesel tank was on the last of our jerry cans. We did have 60 litres of unfiltered vege oil in the back of the car - it was just a matter of filtering oil in the morning the next day.

We turned off the road to Wolfe Creek Crater, suddenly the road became really rough, rougher than any thing we had experienced so far (other than some slow low range off roading with out the trailer)... 20km more to go. While I had not seen the movie Wolfe Creek, it's nature was in the back of my mind. Along the way the car start loosing power.... oh no ... we are running out of fuel, not now !! I switched tanks to use up what might be left in the vege oil tank .... there was only a few km's left before the camp ground. Then like a b-grade horror film our car came to a stop and we were unable to re-start the car. We came to a stop at the last gate in the middle of the road, 1 km from the camp ground. So here it was to be, we flipped out the camper and fell asleep.

The next morning I set about filtering oil and we arrived soon after at Wolfe Creek Crater. Wow - what a place to wake up at. This was amazing 800m wide - wow.

The rest of the Tanami Road was interesting - rocky and windy. Halls Creek was a welcomed stop to re-fuel and change the fuel filters. Our diesel tank somehow has had a lot of junk in it - I have been using generic clear plastic filters @ $1 each to capture the dirty bits in place of blocking the expensive original fuel filter. I had collected a few of these. unfortunately, did not find any in Halls Creek.

Purnululu

Driving along the rough road to Purnululu our last fuel filter became blocked ! We came to a halt on a corner on a windy section of road... I then changed to an original filter I had spare. In the middle of the change I could hear a car hurtling along at an incomprehensible speed. I ran up the road to catch sight waving my hands wildly to suggest slowing down. He showed no signs of slowing and I thought there was no way he was going to stop without hitting our car or Nicole and kids. ARRRRRrrrghghhhh !!! .... Thankfully, he was able to make a quick stop to the side of the road. He thought something desperately was wrong.

Away we went again, 10km on, we came to a halt again? .... Nicole was becoming anxious about being stuck on this trail. I put some diesel in the vege oil tank and away we went again. I am wondering about how so much dirt is getting into the diesel tank? ..... there has to be a leak somewhere? It has been happening on dusty roads each time, and there is no problems with dirt getting into the vege oil system.

On we went, 2 hours on a 50km stretch of road. It varied from deep bull dust, heavy corrugations, mud, sand, creek crossings, wheel rutts, rocks, sharp dips and crests. The veg and geology were just as interesting. We got to the registration office right on closing time. Along the way, we realised that the vege oil tank was leaking .... argghhhh, these rough roads are really shaking things apart ! ....

I spent the next morning pulling the rear end of the car apart. The filler hose had come loose from the vege oil tank, I was covered in dust and oil in searing heat. A handful cable ties and gaff tape it was all back together .... Midday - we were ready to go to catherdral gorge for a walk. We stopped at the visitor centre to get some bearings on the day and Nicole noticed vege oil dripping from the back of the car .... oh no ... there was now a new split in the filler hose and no shops around here to get a new one.

On the way to the walk we decided to see if we could neg a deal on a helicopter over Purnululu. Kaiden was asleep in the car. A quick chat with the pilots I managed to get Kaiden aboard for free (normally he would be $250). When Kaiden woke up he was so surprised to be at the heli pad as he was thinking we were on our way to a walk. Then he spotted a tractor and hoped we could go for a ride on that too.

The flight was stunning, deep gorges and canyons, palms and water holes, a labyrinthic oasis. Kaiden and Nicole were a little uncomfortable with the doors off the helicopter, and Kaiden (sitting in the front with me) would only look out the front window. They both loved their first heli ride and Jamala as tired as she was was looking at the scenery wide eyed and happy. The final part of the flight took us over the famous "Bungle Bungle" rock formations, a real treat for the eyes.

The walks into Cathedral gorge and Echidna chasm were full of inspiring rock formations and a welcomed break from the blazing sun.

Kunanurra

We arrived late into Kunnurra to wash the layers of dirt away and give our selves time to do those domestic things with ease. This place was nothing as I imagined, it seems to have a real chilled out vibe. Exploring the town I was elated to find posters featuring workshops ran by Jo Field (a non-violent communication facilitator who has a passion for enabling parents with non-coercive ways of raising children). If you are reading this Jo, we are looking forward to catching up during our travels - we are getting closer - well at least in the same state.

Disappointingly we discovered Mitchell falls is a mere trickle and the swimming hole not much to write home about for the time being. We will not be making the mammoth effort to drive there, but look forward to the numerous gorges and swimming holes along the Gibb River Road.

Some car fixing is in order before we can leave, and looking forward to escaping the caravan park with tiny allotments, and the noise of caravan air conditioners blasting away all day and night. The up side has been at least there are barking owls in the trees above and Kaiden and I found a 1.5 metre freshie on the banks of the waterway last night on a crocodile hunt. Kaiden was over the moon as we sat within 2 metres by the shore, as soon as the croc made a move kaiden jumped on my back holding on tight.... he still loved every minute being eye to eye. He had been looking forward to crocodile country for a long while.

more photos coming....