We crossed the border to Victoria the second time after crossing it accidentially the day before when I missed the turn off to our camp at Picaninie Ponds. These ponds were spectacularly clear, and unfortunately we did not meet the requirements for a snorkelling permit - primarily that we needed to snorkel together, rather than take turns, and Nicole did not have a full length wetsuit. After crossing the border we explored Glenlg River and set-up camp at Mt Eccles - another recent volcano crater (about 20,000 years old with the last volcanic activity some 7000 years ago). It was fasinating to read the local myths of the area, imagining what a different landscape it was when Aboriginal people lived around volcanic activity.
The coastal parks are impressive from the border onwards, although we missed the opportunity for bush camping as in other areas around the country as there are no camping areas. I guess it is because it is closer to populated areas again. Port Cambell National Park was amazing, the dramatic coastline promoted by Victoria's tourism, is certainly that. It was a sensory indulgence, no escape from it's wild-ness, the arches and rock stacks, including the infamous London Bridge and Twelve Aposles were inspiring.
If this was not enough, we were soon in the Otways - wow... rainforests, waterfalls, Mountain Ash, Myrtle Beeches and beaches. We camped at the peaceful Johanna. In my Austrlian Surf Atlas, it described Johanna as Victoria's answer to Byron Bay??? .... This was certainly far from the images of Byron Bay. There are still a lot of intact forest (outstanding Mountain Ash and Myrtle Beech forests), there are no shops, and only a handful of farm houses. There is peace and quiet, and the ecology is ever present in the senses and safe from development - for now. The bush camping here is still unbelievably free. Perhaps it is the rainfall here in Johanna that the author of the surf guide made connections to Byron Bay because all else seems like a stark contrast to what Byron Bay is, and even what Byron was many decades ago. Sadly, there are people keen on developing this spot as a caravan park, this no doubt would create an opening toward an uninspiring 'resort' styled town as are found elsewhere on the coastline in the region.
From Joanna, We camped in the bush up the hill from Lorne, where we found one of the dirtiest beaches we have experienced so far. In such a beautiful part of the world, it was dissapointing to go down to the beach for a play in the sand with Kaiden. We dived into an area to build sand castles, and immediately noticed we were surrounded by ciggarette butts and bandaids... urrrgghhh, we ran further along the beach dived into the sand again, it was no different, cigerette butts and a huge bandaid stuck out the of sand..... we move along again to an area with a little less cigerette butts and no bandaids. Lorne is a very popular resort town and not what I imagined it to be - I guess we are approaching the large city of Melbourne. In repulsion, We were very temped to go back to Joanna. The waterfalls however are a saving grace for the Lorne area - away from the busy-ness and rubbish.
Next we camp out the back of Anglesea, and went to a local playgroup. We loved it and connected easily with the families, a few who are very keen on unschooling - hoooray ! The towns Airey's Inlet through to south of Torquay were fairly low key and in parts seemed in tune with the environment, I am sure this has contributed to a relaxed atmosphere. Even in the surf at Winkipop, I was welcomed in the line up by the locals and enabled me to be surfing way on the inside, no-one was hassling or snaking for waves.
Winkipop was fantasic to surf, I managed to catch it breaking 4-5 foot with 6ft+ sneaker sets. I was puffed at the end of each wave, so many turns off the lip and sooo much fun. I looked at Bells bowl it was breaking ok, but did seem to have a few slow sections, unlike Winkipop which raced faster and faster down the line...waaahhoooooo !!! I think perhaps Bells only really turns on during huge swells and a bit of a mal wave otherwise? I would love to have a Winkipop break on my doorstep, and jump on a long righthand reef everyday. This area certainly has many drawcards as a potential place for us to live !
From here we catch a ferry to Tassmania from Port Melbourne on the 28th.
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