NYE in Esperance.

A little disappointed we drove on from Point Ann and past, I am certain, many beautiful beaches and camp grounds. All which were full, this coastline has the closest beaches to the mining areas to the north and everyone given the chance heads south for xmass and NYE. We found ourselves camped in a football oval for the overflow camping !! While not reaching anywhere near our top rated camping grounds, we were relaxed, waiting for the crowds to the east to dissipate after the ny's day holidays, in the hope we can find a space to camp at Le Grand NP. Also camped here in the footy oval were other wanders, people who did not prebook accommodation because they are travelling relatively unplanned, like us.... so the camp ground had similar values most people more akin to the bush than town caravan parks, and like us most were waiting out the nye holiday.... how I wished we were still at point Ann.

For NYE Esperance probably is one of the only towns not to have much going for families, no fireworks, no activities, no fan fare events, nothing going on. The tourist information centre suggested that our family may enjoy a night of karaoke at the local lawn bowling club for an entry fee. I considered, wondering if they had some waste vege oil, then decided to stay in the football oval, cook some delicious food, and buy some exquisite chocolate to celebrate with.... we were in bed by 9am - that'd be midnight on the east coast !!

After exploring the amazing beaches in the region, we prepared for a trip through Cape Arid and the Nullarbor. We stocked up with much food and water, and headed eastward. First we encountered the spectacular Cape Le Grand, more beautiful coastline, it seems endless in these parts. unfortunately the camp ground was packed, and although there was a single vacancy next to a caravan connected to a generator that took up half the ute tray that was towing it, we thought, no not for us. There were also a high number of Australian and eureka stockade flags flying in the campground here. Campground hosts (volunteers who help manage the campground) said the general attitude of campers here was a disregard to the ecology and fellow campers, an attitude that where they stake their flags nobody can interfere with what they want to do. Bumper stickers on cars read "Australia is full so piss off" and "Australia love it or fcuk off" etc.

Happily we drove on to Cape Arid National Park, to find a quiet and pleasant campground over looking stunning beaches. We spent the day further along the beach and disappointingly discovered the best bush camping we had come across so far, disappointingly because we set up camp some 30km away. Further down the bay were numerous rocky headlands, protected bays and empty surf breaks! We loved it in Cape Arid.

One hot day arrived in Cape Arid, and we spent the day laying around in the shade and in a cool rock pool at the beach. I surfed in a steamer in 48 degree heat ! It was a strange sensation to be in the cool southern ocean with a fierce wind blowing on my face like a furnace. I wondered up the rocks later to catch some fish for dinner (easy to do in these parts) after about 15mins reeling in six fish and filleting them, I staggered back to the car and needed to lay down. The heat fishing on the granite rocks was intense and I imagine to be easily above 50 degrees.

Later that day speaking with the ranger, he relayed a story about a couple who had driven down near the beach we spent our day. They drove a suburu/rav4 type car - ie not really made to drive across the track conditions, and they got their car stuck. They then decided to leave their car and only having 600mls of water in the heat of the desert found themselves in trouble. They were in terrible condition when the ranger discovered them and were trying to dial 000 in their desperation. It is really frightening to think that people travel out into the desert with such little preparation or knowledge about the seriousness of the place. The ranger said it happens every year in holiday season at least once. The 4wd guide we have explains the trek through Cape Arid as Extreme, this is not just because the driving at times is difficult, it is because of the remoteness, lack of water, and climate. Recovery gear and water are essential in these parts.

With a cool trough we decided to make our way to the Nullarbor via Balladonia. The drive was slow and spectacular. Nicole and I are always so surprised how quickly the hours pass on such remote and difficult drives. It is such a contrast to the highway driving. Before long (hours and hours) we stopped at Balladonia where Kaiden was excited to find another huge chuck of Sky-Lab in the roadhouse museum. From here we drove the 90mile straight into the Nullarbor, we passed by many colours of flowers and hues of greens, and before we knew it we had passed the cool trough fo weather and back into intense heat. We had mis-timed our trip across. The only way to easily escape it was to keep cruising on the Highway in the air-conditioning.

By the end of the day we setup camp at a look out above the Roe Plains, just before the highway descends. The view was stunning, the Roe plains are covered with a bluish saltbush and so flat Nicole was convinced she could see the curvature of the earth. It was still hot. The following day we spent most of the time in the car stopping by the many amazing lookouts, it seemed even hotter. We were disappointed that the heat was so oppressive we preferred to keep driving, unlike the slow scenery soaking trip across the Nullarbor we imagine to be. Nonetheless the Nullarbor is certainly one of Australia's greatest drives, very enjoyable.

Soon we were at Cactus the surfing mecca of SA. We were low on water and food and another 80kms or so from the nearest supplies. We spent a short while here checking out the breaks (only 2ft at the time). So considering the bush camping was $20 a night and we could only really stay one night being low on supplies, and small waves likely to be crowded by all the campers, we decided to move on. There were many more SA desert surf breaks yet, which are either free or with a $2 honesty box.

Surf on the Eyre Peninsular

I am amazed at the amount of quality breaks here, absolutely amazed - nearly every one of them empty. Hard hitting slabs, pealing reefs, point breaks and big wave bommies litter the coastline. On arrival, it is hard to fathom why this coastline is not one the highest must surf areas in every surfers mind. It is the most wave rich coast I have ever seen, outside crowded Indonesian surf breaks. There are reasons for the emptiness; they are the desert with harsh climate conditions and Great Whites. The later had enough fear for me not to enter the waters on my own. Frustratingly I travelled past many perfect peeling waves, my intuition was telling me to leave these waters be. There is also another reason for emptiness - the surfing community here fiercely defends off 'outsiders'.

There is a 'hard nut' surfing community in the SA desert. Outsiders are treated with suspicion and signs of video footage or photos are met with violence or malicious damage to cars. In one town a drive by shooting has occurred after some video footage was taken, other remote breaks can involve things like slashing of all four tyres - this becomes more serious if you can imagine that some of these less known surf breaks are a long way from anywhere and in desert conditions - no-one carries four spare wheels. There are many stories of fights, guns, tyre slashing and other deterrents. This is a place to tread carefully, particularly if you have number plates on your car from interstate (or should I say 'outer-state')

Back to the other major deterrent, Great White Sharks. It took me awhile to pluck up the courage to go surfing on my own at a remote break (~50km along a four-wheel track from the nearest town). Other places we travelled through like Streaky Bay area had exceptional waves, though I heard from fishos about 15ft Whites circling their tinnies. Whites are a confronting reality here.

A person who had done her PhD on Great Whites spoke on the local ABC radio. She assured listeners that there is not much to really be concerned about, explaining that Whites rarely go in for the kill when it comes to humans, later she explained most of the attacks are simply soft bites and that unfortunately soft bites are very traumatic for the human body. I am sold !! Not .... None the less it was this talk that helped me get in the water, alas a very short time. Nicole is still teasing me about it, though she admits there is no way in the world that she would be in those waters out behind the reef breaks..

Talking to other surfers who have regularly come to this region to surf, said that they see at least one great white shark every trip to these parts. They said there are many many times surfers here have their boards bitten or are knocked off, or at least chased into shore, and it was not that uncommon for a 'soft' bite to occur. Because these incidents are so common they barely are mentioned in the media - it is part of surfing in this region. They also confirmed my suspicions about the Streaky Bay area where I was too scarred to go out. They had been up there on this trip and came across a white pointer, and said on their last trip to the Streaky Bay area they saw a Great White breach out of the water chasing Salmon only some ten metres from where they were sitting in the water. One of the main tourist draw cards to this area is Tuna, Seals and Great White cage diving - where you are almost certain to witness “monster size” Great Whites on your dive. Nearly every beach there are warnings about 'natural hazards' and always include the great white.

While still being a little apprehensive about surfing on my own, the short surf the other day has given me some confidence.... The funny thing is if there was only one other person out, I would hit the waves without hesitation, interesting how statistics can change my whole attitude. I would love to come back to these shores with a few friends on a surfari (preferably with SA number plates!)