JARRAH KARRI MARRI and the TINGLES

JARRAH KARRI MARRI and the TINGLES - WOW....

the majestic tall forests of the south were certainly inspiring as were the communities living nearby. The land and its people were an instant attraction for us here. To get a feel for the height of the giant trees we started by venturing into the Pemberton tall forests where there are 3 trees with fire towers that can be climbed - with care !

The first of the climbing trees was the bicentennial tree, 75 metres to the top and I mean the top - the tower extended just beyond the canopy of a Karri (Eucalyptus jacksonii). I choose to go first. The bottom 25 metres were a little daunting as I have never climbed much higher without protection of a rope and harness. To climb the tree it had metal spikes driven into the trunk in a steep ladder like spiral up onto a series of platforms at the top. One simple rule to climbing the tree is 'do not fall'. So after 25 metres or so, it no longer matters much between the degree of outcome should a slip occur, after 25 metres it would result in a very nasty end to the day. And so the climb to the top there after is a breeze. Never-mind there was a view at the top to be seen !!

I was glad to reach the first platform - I am guessing at around 60metres high, inspecting the bolts at the base of the tower after encountering a loose spike, it seemed ok to move on. I was surprised at the enormity of the steel tower attached to the top of the Karri, and ladder after ladder I eventually came to the top all the while wondering how much weight the tower was bearing down on a handful of bolts on the last decent sized branches. Swaying in the wind it felt as if I were at sea, though the ocean surrounding me was awash with green leaves. The views were spectacular to say the least ! Later I learnt this tower weighed about two tonnes, the physics and logic of sticking a two tonne structure ontop of a very tall swaying tree still has mystery for me.

After soaking in the majesty of the wilderness, I began the decent, my legs were pumped by near the bottom and began to ache not too long after reaching the bottom. whooaoa, I need to do some more walking !! The climb gave me a great sense for the height of these trees. It had me reminiscing being under the canopy of Eucalyptus nobilis in Cunnawarra National Park in NSW which reach to near 70m or so. Although the Karri/Marri/Jarrah didn't have the rainforest understorey of the nobilis, the shear enormity of how much tall forest with occasional patches of old growth existing across the landscape was awe inspiring.

Nicole's turn, when she arrived at a small platform at 25 metres she was not convinced that climbing this tree was for her. It was a long way to the top. Somewhat disappointed on leaving the bicentennial tree, Nicole was determined to climb another tree before leaving the Pemberton area. We enjoyed camping in solitude on the Warren River the night before coming to the Glouster Tree - another fire tower that was 61 metres in height. Nervously Nicole ascended the tree with ease.

We enjoyed the rest of the day travelling through fantastic forests including old growth and made our way to a vastly different landscape at Windy Harbour in the heart of the D'entercasteaux National Park. The landscape was stunning a diverse heathland meeting the Southern Ocean at the base of dramatic limestone cliffs - WOW. A wonderful place.

From here we stopped in at Northcliffe where there was an audio self guided forest walk put together by a local community of artists inspired by the forests and the tensions that arise in the community relating to the forests. We were so impressed with the art in the forest, we were wanting more around the country, and imagining how great it would be to have such places in areas like Coffs Harbour and northern NSW. Places where people can connect with the landscape and the stories imbued within the place.

With the trailer coming close to becoming unregistered and requiring an inspection we kept up our pace toward Albany. Although we do not have any concrete time constraints, they do still seem to arise - vehicle inspections were difficult to arrange from Margaret River onwards, some places not having space for 3-4 weeks and smaller towns not able to do official vehicle inspections. We figured a place the size of Albany we would have choice, and hence the pace of our story here.

A stop in Walpole to restock on food was fruitful in terms of waste vegetable oil and unexpected. I gathered a region diverse in culture and rich with sustainable living practices, waste vegetable oil would be a prized resource. No, it was easily accessible and 100's of litres available. Yiiippppeeee

We camped at Fernhook falls a pleasant and quiet place, with only one other solitary camper, a young buzzing woman from Perth who loved to camp out in the bush as often as she could. She was full of life, vibrant and easy to connect with.

On the way to Denmark and the giant Tingle Trees we encountered another display of art in a forest of Karri at Swarbrick - a celebration of the success to protect the last remaining patch of old growth Karri in the region. Although the number of sculptures did not meet the number we encountered at Northcliffe, the stories attached to them were still moving. A mirrored wall of perceptions had many quotes from the region over time... plenty to 'reflect' upon. For example John Ednie-brown who worked for the Department of Woods and Forests WA in 1904 said "The best crop for jarrah forest soil is jarrah trees...the wastefulness of trying to grow grass for possible short-term pastoral needs is suicidal and reprehensible in the extreme".

I really enjoyed our stop in Denmark, the town had plenty of signs of happiness and wellbeing - and not surprising with the diverse healthy landscapes surrounding the town, estuaries, rugged coastline, old growth forests, tranquil bays, surfing beaches. Denmark is also home to the Valley of the Giants and a 600metre wheel chair accessible tree top walk - impressive! The Tingle Trees were inspiring all nobly and old looking, some trunk diameters reaching around 20 metres.

We setup camp on Shellys Beach in West Cape Howe National Park before venturing into Albany for supplies and booking our trailer in for inspection. We were greeted with more dramatic coastal scapes and impossibly clear waters of the Southern Ocean. I was pleased to be here for my 40th birthday.

We are very impressed by the Albury region and could be easily tempted to move to the region to live. There were many areas in the region that seemed to grab our attention. Like the school on the edge of Cape Howe National Park - It read at the entrance, 'a school where I can be me', perhaps a true democratic school? or an other non-coercive? The school buildings even reflected uniqueness and fitting with it's surrounds more than being imposed on the land. It had us wondering ... www.woodburyboston.edu.wa.au ....

Albury city itself was full of frantic xmass shoppers, and us frantic campers running amongst it all chasing food, water, car maintenance supplies, camping equipment pieces, and 3 loads of washing at the laundrymat! We enjoyed the city, it had a mix of buildings old and new... there was something about it I can't put my finger on, something unpolished and exposed about it that I liked. Kaiden was most surprised to find Santa in a shopping mall and explained that he'll be in the bush, this surprisingly unconditional Santa assured Kaiden he'll make it out to the campgrounds. I was happy Kaiden found the other version of Santa - without the typical manipulations and bribes. Another hooray for Albury.

Back to West Cape Howe we felt more at home. It was a wild place, to move anywhere beyond the camp ground were narrow 4WD tracks needing high clearance and low range driving most of the way. Nicole with some reluctance came along for a drive out to the southern point, with a few hair raising sections we discovered awe-inspiring cliff lines and wild coast. I felt like we were very remote, the heath and scrubland was dense, the dark grey dolerite cliffs contrasting with the luminous blue of the crashing southern seas before us left me almost speechless and a bit stunned. Climbing out of the car into swarms of flies still did not take away the coastal bliss.

Xmass was upon us very quickly, on the 22rd we opted to head for Sterling Ranges NP to setup camp there, WOW, the craggy peaks were a stark contrast to the wheat fields it abruptly stood among. Checking out the walks I was disappointed to have lost our macpac child carrier, the walks were hard, probably a little difficult and dangerous for Kaiden on his own. One 2km walk was suggested to take around 4 hours return, requiring high level of fitness agility and a number of rock scrambling sections. Still perhaps Kaiden would be fine if we stretched it to a full day hike and took it slowly?

We setup at camp, which was more like a road rest area nearby the main road with road trains passing by and a couple of caravans using generators .... One night camping like this was enough for us to move on to search for more peaceful surrounds. After taking a scenic drive through the Sterling Ranges it was a little disappointing that there was no other alternative 'quiet' camp site available. The park was really stunning, an internationally recognised biodiversity hotspot. A few campervans took the advantage of sleeping in their vans within the park - just can't easily get away with that having an 18ft campertrailer !

Earlier I enquired about the camping along the coast east of Albany at the tourist info, it was suggested many of the camp grounds near Albany become very full and somewhat rauchus for xmass/NYE. We decided to try our luck at Fitzgerald River National Park, some 400km East of Albany, though not as far from Sterling Ranges. The park was massive, an hour down the road from the entrance we rounded a corner to find a sparkly turquoise bay and mountainous coast in the distance, where the point Ann Campground was. Perfect. The campground was small, the sites were nestled privately amongst the bush with shade and close to the beach. Aaahhhhhhh we sighed.

We enjoyed a peaceful and unconditional xmass, mild temperatures, great food in moderation (probably my first time), Kaiden and Jamala were both joy-full. I felt at home among the other campers here probably seeking similar atmosphere for xmass. We connected easily with a neighbouring family they were so relaxed, and enjoying the travel as a family. We stayed for awhile, Kaiden and Byron a 4yo boy from across the way made a great connection, and played in the bush many creative and imaginative games. Byron told his mum "I really really love Kaiden". This gave me plenty of time to reflect about how many people we have connected with along the way, who enjoy connecting with children compassionately and unconditionally. I am really inspired that these connections are in abundance on the road. Watching the kids these values really come out in their play, and is a joy to witness.

The neighbouring family has been enjoying home-schooling and spoke a little of their journey, they seemed to be finding their way toward unschooling. When I mentioned it they were very excited to here that such a concept existed, and are looking forward to investigating it more. We exchanged contact details and hope to meet with them again someday.

Margret River

Jamala's first birthday was spent on the road and a roadside campsite and I am begining to wonder if my 40th will be much like this too ?!

First thing in the morning we were off to explore the Margret River coastal region before settling into Contos campground just to the SW of Margret River township. The coastline here is magical, so many bays and beaches, reefs and rocky outcrops, with stunningly crystal clear water. Time flew by us here - not too sure what we did in the 10 days? I did manage to surf, sip some wine and finish reading some books.

Margret River region reminded me of Bellingen on the mid-north coast of NSW - only different in that it seemed busier and was surrounded by wineries and nearby exceptional surf breaks. On the surface it seemed that we could easily slip into the community here and settle in, I have not a clue what I would do for work in a place like this.

ahhh some things are coming back to me.... I am sure my brain looses some functioning every time I slip into my camp chair ! .... There were two massive highlights for Kaiden - first a visit to the Margret River Chocolate factory, where Kaiden and the rest of us watched chocolates being made anc we all indulged in tastings too !! It was superb chocolate - absolutely delicous ... perhaps it was a good thing that the price matched the flavour or else our trailer would be full !! YUM. Second was a visit to Leewin Lighthouse, the tallest mainland lighthouse in Australia. Kaiden and Nicole climbed the lighthouse to take in the views accross both the Southern and Indian Oceans. under 4 years were not permited to climb no matter that Jamala is adept with climbing. Jamala and I sat in the cafe eating chocolate muffin. Kaiden has loved lighthouses ever since he started noticing them, so he was delighted to find one he could climb up !

The intersting thing having the southern and Indian Oceans converging, strange weather events occur. Leaving the lighthouse we noticed a huge cloud like formation on the horizon, was it rain, was it smoke, we were not sure. Then it came in, fog at 1pm on a summers day !!!.... I had the warm sun on my back and a cool southerly wind blowing fog in my face. It was as if someone just switched an jinourmous airconditioner on.

to side track: An event I am mindful of that I unfortunately will miss is Drew Dellinger's tour of Australia while here in WA.

Video - http://drewdellinger.org/pages/video/187/hieroglyphic-stairway

HIEROGLYPHIC STAIRWAY by Drew Dellinger

It's 3:23 in the morning
and I'm awake
because my great great grandchildren
won't let me sleep
my great great grandchildren
ask me in dreams
what did you do while the planet was plundered?
what did you do when the earth was unraveling

surely you did something
when the season started failing?

as the mammals, reptiles, birds were all dying?

did you fill the streets with protest
when democracy was stolen?

what did you do
once
you
knew?...

From many of his gems influenced by elder's like Thomas Berry. I wonder what it is that happened for some people to cast their eyes to the ground and say it is not their concern, it is beyond their life span when things will get real tough, it is not their concern.

None-the-less Nicole and I have been inspired by some older generations on the road, Nicole nicknamed them the "Silver Nomads" - they pride themselves on their sustainablity achievements, efficent transport, going solar, converting cars to run on hydrogen (one guy did it to his diesel - I must look into this !!!), etc. Perhaps there will be more elders like Thomas Berry's and Joanna Macy's to come? look forward to meeting more on the road !

Off to the great southern coast to dip into inspiring wildscapes of tall forests and windy seas.

Around Coronation Beach and Geraldton things are a bit blury and I can't seem to remember anything extraordinary, perhaps if I was a windsurfer I would have much to say?

Cervantes and the pinnacles were spectacular including some more stromatolites. The pinnacles at Cervantes are a bit of a mystery in their formation and there is no agreement between geologists.

We slept a night in Avon Valley National Park before heading into Perth and it was refreshing to be back in what I could call a forest !

Perth was a bit scary so BIG and BUSY (not to Perth folk however). we zipped around trying to find accommodation and settled in South Fremantle. First up we spent a day at Rottnest Island. This was spectacular. Amazingly enough a friend from uni days I have been wanting to catch up with was on the ferry on the way over. Roland was lucky enough to get a job working with Rottnest terrestrial and marine ecology. It was great to catch up wished we had more time. We hired bikes - one with a trailer for Jamala and Kaiden, and rode around the island. Every corner seemed to lead to a spectacular bay with fringing reefs and limestone shelters. Such a paradise on the doorstep of a city !

Oh yeh, another highlight was seeing a Quokka. At first we though that we may need to be lucky and be there at dusk or dawn to catch such an elusive creature. Kaiden and I first spotted one behind the bike hire shed. Sometime on our way into the settlement I mentioned this to Nicole. She seemed dismayed that I had not alerted her immediately concerned shed had missed seeing them altogether. Then we turn our heads towards the shops and some people we feeding a Quokka in the mall some Red Roaster (fast food stuff). So they are not that elusive at all !! .... sitting down at the bakery they we nibbling crumbs around people's feet. Quokka's have established themselves within the seagull niche.

Back on the mainland was a tight busy schedule. First up Nicole's parents came over to catch up and say happy birthday to Jamala. I in the middle of this I left to caught up with a teacher/psychologist who is passionate about democratic education and unschooling, and was great to share in her knowledge of how things work in government systems and the recent politics surrounding, as well as many things we both value about these two forms of learning - or learning ecology so to speak. I felt inspired and refreshed, and can't wait to get back to the families near coffs harbour. Before we knew it most of the day had past, and we had a short meander through Fremantle, which was full of Cafes, music and the arts. It reminded us much of the Newtown or Glebe in Sydney.

The next day I was very excited to meet with a group of homeschoolers, two people who I have been in touch with since before Jamala's birth !! - where did that time go? I found it so pleasant and easy to sit with this group of families, and relished in the warming welcome. So thanks for the morning Chiara and Joss. I really wish we could have spent a lot more time, it really felt like 'home' to me.

Next we were off to the other side of the city to visit Nicole's cousins, Aunty and Uncle. We seemed to zip through a blur of catching up here, and suddenly we were on our way to visit my cousin and Aunty. Sandy my cousin I had not seen for some 25-30 years !!! It was funny catching up with them it seems my family all seem to be choosing lifestyle/family before careers ! Hmmm maybe it is simply in my blood to indulge in life over work?

So now I am exhausted and about to pack up to head south..... YAY !!! I have been looking forward to this for a long time....

Heading for Shark Bay Red bluff echoed in our minds, really a sensational place !

We drove through wonder-full scenery at Shark Bay WHA and onwards to camp in Francois Peron National Park. Here were serene empty beach-scapes that were empty of other humans - they were full of life. I could easily let a few weeks slip here. ... http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=177209&id=616999551&l=25afd70ffa ...these photos show a little of what it is about.

Later we stayed at the infamous Monkey Mia, here we greeted the indo-pacific bottle noses and set sail on the Shotover to see the many Dugongs. Kaiden and Jamala seemed at home on the catamaran, climbing in all directions. It was 60ft ex-ocean racer, from memory I think the beam was 31ft? or there abouts. This cat still held many speed records on the open ocean. Within 5 mins sailing we spoted a mother Dugong and calf, and was not long before we caught sight of many more. A great day out.

We did not much else. It was a resort. Such strange places, all these flashy advertisements do this do this and this and this. Seems so busy with things to do and mostly nothing inspiring at all, except perhaps to move on and be away from such surreal scenes.

Here was the second time in our trip that a person used "Aborigines" to describe something he was digusted about. What is it that being Aboriginal had to do with his story I had no idea at all, except to claim something against Aborignal people. What is heartening for me is that this is only the secondtime in the trip I had heard such a claim. I have heard from others who have travelled through Australia to meet many people who express uncompassionate words and even hatred towards the traditional people of Australia. This is even described in Bill Bryson's book about his travels through "Down Under", Bryson seemed just as puzzled by it.

Reminds me, we were both surprised and dissapointed when an employee from the Department of Environment and Conservation introduced "Shark Bay" as being unnamed prior to William Dampier in 1699. This place in fact had a name long before William set his eyes on this place. The traditional name for Shark Bay is Gathaagudu meaning two waters.

we bumped another family we have been seeing since Broome and was great to see some familar faces, and seems we'll be seeing them some more although their time schedule is much tighter than our own.

In Monkey Mia the vege-oil availablity was dry as my own tanks.... the resort recycled thier vegetable oil to use in their diesel generators and cars. This is far better than hearing how some places simply bury it 'somewhere'.

We visted the fascinating Stromatolites. 3.5 billion year old life forms !! wow, walking out onto the board walk it was easy to imagine what the world may have looked like all that time ago, even though these colonies were a mere 3,000 years old. It did not take much of a leap to contemplate how the dominant culture has so rapidly been undoing the rich evolutionary story that followed. Perhaps assited by a recent reading of Daniel Quinn's "Story of B" and current reading of ecologist Edward Wilson's "The future of Life".

Next was Kalbarri, I had been looking forward to seeing this places for ages - there is superb overhanging rock climbs and one of WA's best surfing breaks, Jakes Point. The drive through the National Park was a real surprise so much of the sandstone heath was in flower. stree I was loving the familar sense of wandering through sandstone heath and the scenery was inspiring. Inspiring to wander through for days. Perhaps another time when the kids are older.

Disapointingly Jakes Point was a mere 1-2ft. I could see the potential watching two grommies flying along the faces of the hollow perfectly formed two ft waves. Kalbarri is the first town Nicole considered as a place to live. Kalbarri certainly has a lot of potential. Unfortunately the recent land developments are indicating a new style for the village. One called "Eco-flora" with street names to match the names of the plants that were wiped out to make way for the development itself (ironic huh?). The next one Nicole thought was a new correctional facility being built, a gated community with a high pointy barred fence around it ! None-the-less we could spend a bit of time here while it is still low key.

Driving south of Kalbarri was a spectacular limestone coastline, as was the pinklakes, and the coast at Port Grey and Horrocks. We decided to stay at Corranation Beach a Kite and Windsurfing mecca, this comes with the character of being windy ! So we only stayed a night.

Onwards to Geraldton and other busy places like Perth, we are contemplating what to do over the school holidays. We are going to be in one of WAs holiday hotspots - Margret River. This may mean booking places to stay with an itinery of where we will be and where. "How?" we ask ourselves.

Red Bluff

Red Bluff

After Cape Range NP a place like Coral Bay is a bit disappointing. Not sure what I was expecting, my imagination seemed to ignore the town description - "Resort Town". None-the-less once under the water the town disappeared.

We jumped on a glass bottom boat tour. Both Kaiden and Jamala loved it. Kaiden was running around pointing out all the things he was learning about - picking out scissor fish, spangled emperors, various corals, tusk fish, angel and butterfly fish, moon wrasse, assorted damsels ... the tour guide Amber was impressed by Kaidens 'sponge' abilities and clear articulation.

Off to Carnarvon and as described by the lonely planet - a non-descript town ... the key thing happening here is fruit and veg, most of which was out of season. So with excitement and some nerves we headed for the infamous Red Bluff on Quobba Station.

In Mark Warrens surf guide Red Bluff is described - "The Bluff features a steep, jacking take off, followed by a long hollow, bowling section before it backs off into the deep hole around the point called the shark pit (don't ask). Breaking over extremely shallow, urchin-infested coral and limestone bottom..... A good first aid kit is recommended as meeting with the bottom is inevitable here...."

Arriving at Red Bluff was a dream. Stunning desert-scape with fringing shoreline reefs, low key camping set ups with abundant marine life... plus off course one of Australia's best left hand reef breaks. My nerves settled when I saw that the waves were only 3 foot (about shoulder high faces) with the occasional larger sets pushing through. Phew, I was not going to die ! Unfortunately, the waves have been a bit bigger for a duration of about 4 days before we arrived. Oh well, the point was empty which was an added bonus, yet I suppose less for the sharks to choose from changing stats.

I meet a couple who had been staying there for two months and plan to stay for another month or so (teaching the kids on the station - about 14 of them), although they do miss their own grandchildren. These grand parents were chargers both had a full quiver of boards, John, said the day they arrived in September the swell hit 12ft (to non-surfers this means a wave face and tube big enough to fit a truck or there abouts). He said within 1.5 hours 7 surfboards were snapped in half in the first session. He said everyone was relaxed, and guys who wanted to go deeper would ask to paddle on the inside and offer the next wave - a rare thing on the east coast (not that I would have enjoyed surfing the Bluff at 12ft !!). The swell remained 12ft for several days, slowly dropping over the month (BTW the waves were coming in 7-9 wave sets !!). Once it gets over 8ft here there is no bottom turn without consequences, it is straight into a fast hollow tube ride to the end.

The few people I had met that loved to surf here seemed unsatisfied unless the surf was at least 8ft and happy with 10ft plus. This is probably why the place was empty with mere 4ft waves. Back at Coffs Harbour if a wave was breaking this hollow and mechanically over a shallow reef at 4ft, I am sure many surfers would be paddling over the top of each other to have a go at it.

It was not an easy place to leave - a paradise for sure and a stark contrast from resort towns like Coral Bay. Why are we leaving ? I am not sure.... hmmm ....

Anyway Shark Bay area next....

Ningaloo and Coral Coast

We had a quick camp on our way to Exmouth at a stunning bay all to ourselves in a grove of casuarinas. We planned to stay at Exmouth for a few days and hoped to catch up with an old friend, Roland, then to discover he had recently moved to Perth. Never mind we were pleased to be within a stone's throw of Ningaloo Marine Park and we really wanted to wash the iron-ore from our clothes and bed sheets. We camped next to a couple from SE Vic who were searching the coast for places to live and to do a bit of work. Craig's background was working on boats and commercial diving.

Kaiden instantly took a liking to him and they played with mutual liking. Craig commented that Kaiden reminded him about himself as a child. They made toys together and modified Kaiden’s bike, Craig assisted Kaiden with learning to swim and snorkel. I find it interesting how quickly Kaiden will connect and be fully present with people who seem to naturally relate unconditionally. Again I am inspired to meet more people like this on the road.

Here at Exmouth I rigged up a fishing rod after about eleven to twelve years. Kaiden came along with his new rod too. Within a few mins I hooked up something big. I could feel several bites, and suddenly it ran....zzzhzhzhhiiiiiiiiiiieeeeeeee ..... I looked down at my reel spinning fast as the fish took off. Nicole spotted something some thirty metres jump out of the water. We still could not tell what it was. About 15 mins later I reeled the fish into sight, it was a Giant Trevally about 80cm in length. We thought we would be feeding a few people back at camp. As I reached down to my feet on the edge of the rocks to pick the fish up, it gave a huge flick and snapped the line, and cruised off into deeper waters out of sight. Kaiden was very excited about catching a fish - well almost. A tale of the one that got away :-)

At Exmouth we explored the beaches and the surfing reefs, it was a bit blown out, with the typical strong winds at this time of year. During this time our camping neighbour picked up work on the boats. In four hours work where most the time he slept he was given $380, typically Craig said he will earn about $5 - 8k for ten days on the water. This had me wondering about the profits involved in fisheries and the politics for sustainability.

We have grabbed their contact details to meet up with them again in Victoria where Craig has access to several surf breaks adjacent to private landholdings and only a few have the privilege to own keys to the gates.

After a lazy re-organisation of the car and fixing a niggling short circuit on the car, I managed to collect about 100 litres of vegetable oil in Exmouth with ease. It was time to move onto the western side of Cape Range.

We found an excellent camp site at "Lakeside" with a nearby snorkelling sites, it is a little frustrating that I had left the underwater housing back at the storage shed (as well as my dive ticket!), the snorkelling was amazing and made up for it! and all so accessible ...... near shore we swam with reef sharks, turtles, a full size groper. Typically entering the waters we were greeted by schools of dart, whiting and yellow finned bream, closer onto the reef there was an amazing diversity of colourful fish ...... Some other snorkellers swam with a manta ray. Kaiden is having a go at snorkelling too and quickly becomes overwhelmed by the sights and sounds, he is sure to love it soon. This is a hard place to leave !

While camping here at Cape Range we meet several people who shared similar sense of adventure, going with quiet solar power setups, staying at caravan parks only when absolutely necessary. One couple had been on a life time adventure from England where they started by purchasing a catamaran to sail to Spain with their children. Five and a half years later they had sailed around the world, with many exciting stories to tell and landed in New Zealand to live on the land. They now are travelling by whatever means around Australia. This was interesting for us as we have been reading up on sailing with the intention of possibly sailing up the QLD coast after returning to Emerald Beach.

The family we met at Cape Leveque turned up at our camp ground and was great to catch up with them again. I have been inspired by the life they have been leading. They lived for a time on Thursday Island and in Eastern Arnhem Land where they gained many inspiring stories to tell. I really enjoyed spending time listening and chatting, the whole family seemed to glow and be fully present.

I find it amazing that a number of travelling families home schooling easily covered the government required curriculum with only 1/2 - 1 hour study a day and well within less than a school term - most of the day is spent learning through play. Einstein said that "the highest form of research is play" and he was deemed unteachable by schooling systems of the time. hmmmmm ....

We ran out of basic supplies like butter, bread, cooking oil (for cooking), rice, so on and so decided to back track to Exmouth to restock rather than crossing Yardie Creek to the south and continuing along the coast. The next main town would be Carnavan and we won't be there for a while.

I love solar and 12v fridges, and campsites where power generators are unwelcome!!

Kaiden now has curls and Jamala as already, my grandmother will be pleased !!

ilbra

Pilbara


Before leaving Broome I decided to ask at a different Cafe about vege oil, they said "sure take as much as you like", wandering out through the back door I was greeted by 800 litres of fuel ... I mean waste vege oil .... so with delight I filled my containers :-) ... all ready for our trip to Karijini

Happy to be out of Broome ... this seemed to us to be a town existing as a launch platform to see regions further afield and not much else to stir a desire to stay ...

Cape Kerauden at the southern end of Eighty Mile Beach was a welcomed surprise, we loved the scenery - rocky beaches on the north side and tidal mud flats with mangroves (and crocs) on the south side of the point. After setting up camp I wandered up on a small cliff edge on the mangrove side of the point. We head that sharks were common on this part of the coast, and within a few minutes I saw two small sharks cruising in the near-shore waters. Swimming was less tempting afterward, although crocs were also on the list of deterrents.

Port Hedland region with it's severe mining industry added to our inspiration to move onward to Karijini as quickly as possible. We meet a young French couple on the road who worked here for 3 months, they were certainly in a celebratory mood on their first night away from Port Hedland. We shouted "Freedom !!" to the winds together with huge smiles.

Karijini lived up to our expectations, rich in cultural stories and refreshing for the senses. The oldest rocks in the world are here with huge interest from the surrounding mining industry because it contains the richest source of iron-ore in the world. Signage at the National Parks suggested this pressure is likely to see the protection of cultural and conservation values to be compromised in the future. Although I am guessing the fossil fuels required to run the iron ore industry will become a competing interest first.

The gorges and waterfalls were inspiring, the iron rich rocks almost looked as if it had already been processed into steel. Apparently magnets will stick weakly to some of the rocks here. We spent an afternoon bathing at .... falls and fern pool, dipping in the cool waters and re-warming on the baking rocks. Fern pool sounded wonderful and signage requested to quietly enter the waters and refrain from making loud noises as respect for the cultural significance of the pool. They provided a ladder into the deep pool to aid in quietly entering the waters. I can only imagine how the ambience of the place would be if people choose to respect the traditional carers request. As we readied ourselves for a swim, Several people turned up drinking alcohol and shouting loudly, jumping off the landing, also high off the rocks above the waterfall dive bombing into the waters and encouraging others to join them. Access above the waterfall is prohibited by National Parks. Perhaps they did not read the request?

Back at camp we meet a couple who suggested how great Millstream National Park was and now encouraged to travel here. They had aligning views on the education systems commonly in place in Australia it did not take long to connect on many other life values in our conversations. It is refreshing to meet more people on the road who held similar ethics. We really enjoyed the way they interacted with Kaiden, really drawing out who he is rather than telling him who they think he might be. We may see them again some time on the East coast?

Circular Pool was another fantastic gorge swimming area, unfortunately being here on a busy weekend, request to respect this sacred site by quietly entering the waters and staying quiet went unheard or ignored.

Next was the Weano Gorge area, where we meet a cyclist, who had been travelling now for eight months and virtually had followed the same route we had done to get to Karijini. The last water point had a broken windmill pump, so we filled his bottles and chatted about many things. Kaiden really enjoyed his company and shared his passion for cycles. Our neighbours from the camp turned up - a retired couple, Jack and Jill (no jokes), these guys were really switched on. They had children about the same ages as ourselves. They also connected with Kaiden and Jamala in compassionate ways, really listening to them and appreciating them for who they were, it was heartening to see.

The gorges in this area were amazing, much deeper, steeper and narrower with the end sections involving abseiling and rock climbing (my equipment was all back in the storage shed .... boo hooo). None-the-less Kaiden loved climbing the ladder and being in the back pack while I climbed around some tricky traverses. Nicole was much more nervous with Jamala on her back and slippery shoes, Jamala was smiles all the way ! ... I hope the photos can kind of tell the storey about how amazing these gorges were. Both these gorges we shared the company with cyclist - Graeme, at both Kermit’s Pool and Handrail pool ... to go any further with the kids was too dangerous.

Next we went to Millstream, wow what a surprise. A great swimming hole at the door step, with a great diversity of plant and bird life. Again this is a very significant place for indigenous people.

We had the camp ground to ourselves for the first day - paradise, nestled in among Snappy gum, Millstream palms and paper bark riparian ... ahhhhhh. We will not forget this place in a hurry. The second day a few more people showed up to bath in the delights of this oasis, thankfully they did not detract from the quiet experience of the place.

Cape Range here we come ! (Gnarloo is getting closer ... better find me some wax)

Cape Leveque !!

Photos: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=151713&id=616999551&l=7446c18c88


After a night in Broome we were back ont he road and on our way north. First Quondong Beach a free camping bush area - it was fantastic, we had the whole place to ourselves !! On the way , we again we came to the help of a family broken down, it was dissapointing to hear several people passed them without assisting ?! - They had a blown radiator hose. Next we came across a bogged 2wd van, then on the rough part of Cape Leveque Rd we were the first to arrive at the site of a 4wd van that had rolled. The passengers and Driver we all ok, a bit shaken (no pun intended), the owner only had the van for two weeks.

Cape Leveque - WOW WOW WOW - we loved this place, stunning. www.ardi.com.au

Not only did we connect with the place, we connected quickly and easily with the people staying there. There were many (mis)adventurous stories shared along with the love of the land. Many of the people camping here had young children up to about 13 years old. We really enjoyed connecting with our neighbouring campers with 3 older boys with their widely (wildly) bright eyes and strong presence. They all had done a lot of travelling from a young age, perhaps unschooled - I wanted to ask and got side tracked.... the family did seem to be tuned into natural learning.

At Cape Leveque the humidity kicked in as we were surrounded by water. Along the journey I had thought we aclimatised quickly as 38 degrees below seemed comfortable after doing several bush walks with temps reaching past 45 degrees. Back at Emerald Beach I think we would have a complete meltdown with continous temps in the high 30's.... I was going to write about the Gibb and the gorges .... might save that for our return....

Anyway, back in Broome as a stepping stone for the next adventure and hoping for more "Cape Leveques"... where to next? ... 80mile beach then Karajini... Dampier? or Exmouth...

Gibb River Rd

After two days of chasing car bits and putting the back end of the car back together in Kununurra we headed for our trip across the Gibb River Rd. First stop was El Questro Station. We were surprised at the conditions of the road, so smooth compared to the other dirt rods we have travelled. After an easy drive to ELQ station and exorbitant fees for entry and camping, we swam in the nearby water hole ready to explore the station we have heard so much about.

We started the next day at Zebedee springs, these were at a wonderful temperature for the morning - about 30 degrees and thankfully much cooler than Dalhousie Springs. We lazed around under the shady palms in the crystal clear waters and watched people come and go. Next we went to Moonshine gorge which entailed 4 wheel driving across sand, rocks and creek crossings. This was enough to see Nicole a little nervous. After an enjoyable swim in the water hole, I suggested to Nicole that she may like to drive. - and she was willing !! Nicole managed the creek crossings and track with ease, and was building confidence with off road driving.

For the afternoon we decided to check out look out on the station. The descriptions of the trail really gave Nicole the jitters. Away we went with a steep creek crossing and steep low range accent we were greeted with spectacular views. Again, I suggested to Nicole she may like to drive back, this time it was really a tongue in cheek suggestion. Nicole said yes !? ... Nicole smoothly drive our car to the bottom of the hill, and negotiated the steep turn that was sure to see us roll the car sideways down into the gorge to our peril ;-) ....

Keen to leave ELQ and get back into the bush camping, we packed early and we on our way west. After 100km or so we mentioned to each other how smooth the Gibb River Road was... surely it is much worse at other times of the year?... 10 mins later I feel a wobble in the trailer - perhaps a flat, I hit the brakes a bit and BANG ... oh... and BANG, and another bang and the sound of the trailer dragging and wheels locked up .... crap !

We got out of the car ... HHHHMMMMmmmmm ... it did not look that great.... the tongue that holds the tow ball snapped off, looking back, a hinge off the camper top had also broken and twisted to the side. Next I heard air coming out of a tire and saw that the wheel was to the rear and jammed up under the trailer....eerrrr.... the axle had come off the springs and caused allsorts of havoc !! A quick assessment I noted the parts I needed to get the trailer back to Kununurra.

Back to Kununurra, dropped Nicole and kids off at a place with cabin accommodation. Kaiden and Jamala were over the moon to be in a small house with cupboards, stove, and all that stuff. While they enjoyed the spa and pool, I set off back to the trailer to attempt to get it back into town for repairs. On the drive out, I had music going, the sun was going down. Soon Pink Floyd song came over the radio "Wish you were here", two brolgas glided along side of the car to my left and on my right the Cockburn ranges started glowing orange with the sun set. Yep, I wish any of my friends were here, I could not ask for much more, it was brilliant !!

A new Reality set in as I pulled in next to the trailer, there was not much light left in the day and had to work fast to take advantage of it. I managed to get the axle seated back on the springs with a bit of hacksawing, grunting and levering ... and before complete darkness, Soon I was fiddling about in the dark, loosing bits and doing stuff with a torch in my mouth. I needed to get the trailer up high with both wheels off the ground to persuade the axle to be back in the centre so that the tyres did not rub..... I was just getting out an air jack when a car came by and offered help ... YES !! ..... with a seconded jack and some helping hands we had the trailers wheels turning again within about an hour.

After enjoying an extraordinary moonrise above the Cockburn ranges on the way back, I arrived back in Kununurra at about 11:40pm totally knackered. A cold beer was in order.

Two days later the trailers springs and axle was replaced, and was a story in itself to arrange and find the right parts. A common story I found in the caravan parks - as some people had been waiting weeks to have their cars repaired !

Will write again soon about the Gibb River Rd and the gorges, we are now in Broome waiting for a fire to pass as we can not travel north from Broome to Cape Leveque until it is under control. This gives us a chance to have the camper trailer top welded properly so that it seals again.

photos to come....

Our remainder of time at Uluru was fantastic, and really loved the close up wandering around the base. So many stories (Tjukurpa) and more intrigue.

Did I mention about the price of Coopers beer at Uluru? ... after a hot walk in the afternoon, I thought I would really enjoy a cold beer. I searched the car and trailer there was none to be found. So I made a quick visit to the bottle shop, and to my surprise a 6-pack of Coopers was $57, I scanned my eyes down the price list thinking perhaps a beer of less quality .... the cheapest was a light beer at $38 for a 6-pack. Water suddenly was a lot more appetising and thirst quenching.

Back to Alice and a bit more car maintenance etc, and simply re-organising, re-stocking, washing so forth. Also a quick dash around for more vege oil. I went straight to the places I knew that have provided to others in the past. Two of the restaurants "threw out" their oil the day before !! (one place threw out over 100 litres), the next two said they now give their oil to the boys from "The Grease Monkeys". The Grease Monkeys I assume are a new local group onto the idea of using waste vege oil as fuel - they do not collect any fat/lard/palm oil. HMMMMmmmm 80Litres of vege oil is all we have and we were about to head through the Tanami. One day out from collection.

Tanami
Strong head winds showed up once again at the beginning of a long stretch. This means going through a more fuel. We headed off through another ever changing desert, flowers, green shrubs and trees, much spinifex was in seed and looking great. All this green was set against a variety of brown, red, orange and quartz rich soil and rocks. The terrain changed from hilly to rocky and flat. We drove and drove and drove.... stopping for lunch and dinner. After dinner at a reasonably comfortable road stop, we decided to drive in the remaining light of the day and camp at the next rest stop. Well, that never really came, once darkness feel, we drove for hours never really seeing any where to pull over with enough flat space for our camper. Onwards we when past the turn off for Rabbit Flat and coming close to a camel on the side of the road - not something I would really like to run into at 80km/h !!. Then wearily we were in reach of Wolfe Creek.

Wolfe Creek it was, we were getting very low of fuel, the vege oil tank was empty, and the diesel tank was on the last of our jerry cans. We did have 60 litres of unfiltered vege oil in the back of the car - it was just a matter of filtering oil in the morning the next day.

We turned off the road to Wolfe Creek Crater, suddenly the road became really rough, rougher than any thing we had experienced so far (other than some slow low range off roading with out the trailer)... 20km more to go. While I had not seen the movie Wolfe Creek, it's nature was in the back of my mind. Along the way the car start loosing power.... oh no ... we are running out of fuel, not now !! I switched tanks to use up what might be left in the vege oil tank .... there was only a few km's left before the camp ground. Then like a b-grade horror film our car came to a stop and we were unable to re-start the car. We came to a stop at the last gate in the middle of the road, 1 km from the camp ground. So here it was to be, we flipped out the camper and fell asleep.

The next morning I set about filtering oil and we arrived soon after at Wolfe Creek Crater. Wow - what a place to wake up at. This was amazing 800m wide - wow.

The rest of the Tanami Road was interesting - rocky and windy. Halls Creek was a welcomed stop to re-fuel and change the fuel filters. Our diesel tank somehow has had a lot of junk in it - I have been using generic clear plastic filters @ $1 each to capture the dirty bits in place of blocking the expensive original fuel filter. I had collected a few of these. unfortunately, did not find any in Halls Creek.

Purnululu

Driving along the rough road to Purnululu our last fuel filter became blocked ! We came to a halt on a corner on a windy section of road... I then changed to an original filter I had spare. In the middle of the change I could hear a car hurtling along at an incomprehensible speed. I ran up the road to catch sight waving my hands wildly to suggest slowing down. He showed no signs of slowing and I thought there was no way he was going to stop without hitting our car or Nicole and kids. ARRRRRrrrghghhhh !!! .... Thankfully, he was able to make a quick stop to the side of the road. He thought something desperately was wrong.

Away we went again, 10km on, we came to a halt again? .... Nicole was becoming anxious about being stuck on this trail. I put some diesel in the vege oil tank and away we went again. I am wondering about how so much dirt is getting into the diesel tank? ..... there has to be a leak somewhere? It has been happening on dusty roads each time, and there is no problems with dirt getting into the vege oil system.

On we went, 2 hours on a 50km stretch of road. It varied from deep bull dust, heavy corrugations, mud, sand, creek crossings, wheel rutts, rocks, sharp dips and crests. The veg and geology were just as interesting. We got to the registration office right on closing time. Along the way, we realised that the vege oil tank was leaking .... argghhhh, these rough roads are really shaking things apart ! ....

I spent the next morning pulling the rear end of the car apart. The filler hose had come loose from the vege oil tank, I was covered in dust and oil in searing heat. A handful cable ties and gaff tape it was all back together .... Midday - we were ready to go to catherdral gorge for a walk. We stopped at the visitor centre to get some bearings on the day and Nicole noticed vege oil dripping from the back of the car .... oh no ... there was now a new split in the filler hose and no shops around here to get a new one.

On the way to the walk we decided to see if we could neg a deal on a helicopter over Purnululu. Kaiden was asleep in the car. A quick chat with the pilots I managed to get Kaiden aboard for free (normally he would be $250). When Kaiden woke up he was so surprised to be at the heli pad as he was thinking we were on our way to a walk. Then he spotted a tractor and hoped we could go for a ride on that too.

The flight was stunning, deep gorges and canyons, palms and water holes, a labyrinthic oasis. Kaiden and Nicole were a little uncomfortable with the doors off the helicopter, and Kaiden (sitting in the front with me) would only look out the front window. They both loved their first heli ride and Jamala as tired as she was was looking at the scenery wide eyed and happy. The final part of the flight took us over the famous "Bungle Bungle" rock formations, a real treat for the eyes.

The walks into Cathedral gorge and Echidna chasm were full of inspiring rock formations and a welcomed break from the blazing sun.

Kunanurra

We arrived late into Kunnurra to wash the layers of dirt away and give our selves time to do those domestic things with ease. This place was nothing as I imagined, it seems to have a real chilled out vibe. Exploring the town I was elated to find posters featuring workshops ran by Jo Field (a non-violent communication facilitator who has a passion for enabling parents with non-coercive ways of raising children). If you are reading this Jo, we are looking forward to catching up during our travels - we are getting closer - well at least in the same state.

Disappointingly we discovered Mitchell falls is a mere trickle and the swimming hole not much to write home about for the time being. We will not be making the mammoth effort to drive there, but look forward to the numerous gorges and swimming holes along the Gibb River Road.

Some car fixing is in order before we can leave, and looking forward to escaping the caravan park with tiny allotments, and the noise of caravan air conditioners blasting away all day and night. The up side has been at least there are barking owls in the trees above and Kaiden and I found a 1.5 metre freshie on the banks of the waterway last night on a crocodile hunt. Kaiden was over the moon as we sat within 2 metres by the shore, as soon as the croc made a move kaiden jumped on my back holding on tight.... he still loved every minute being eye to eye. He had been looking forward to crocodile country for a long while.

more photos coming....

Alice

We loved Alice Springs, such a vibrant place, stuff happening all the time, festivals and very friendly people. I am really impressed that people in this country english can be their fourth, fifth or even sixth language, and I am inspired to hear young children speaking language fluently. I can see why Liam loved being out here and why he was back for a short visit.

Kaiden, Jamala and Nicole paid a visit to the desert park while I did administrative type things in town.

After a couple of days rest in Alice we ventured into West Macdonald Ranges visiting gorges and doing walks. First camp out of Alice nearly saw us seriously bogged again ! We camped at a spot called 2-mile a 3km 4WD camping area on the Finke River. It was wonder-fully quiet and by some water some other campers ventured in and camped a long way off where we could make out their camp light in the distance - perfect ! the next morning we did a walk at Ormison gorge (and were happy about where we camped the night before - the camp ground here resembled something closer to a caravan park). The walking in West Macdonald Ranges is spectacular. It must be truly a great experience to walk the Larapinta Trail. Next a short visit to Glen Helen - can't believe they fry their food with lard...vege oil is very low, too low for me to bother putting the remainder in the tank. :-( .. travelling on dinosaur fuel it is (dino-deisel).

Our next destination was Finke Gorge National Park - this went beyond all expectations, really stunning and kind of reminded me of Moab Utah or something. Our second walk for the day through Palm Valley was superb ! We loved this place and figured we could spend a lot of time here. Still we are pushed with the seasons of the Kimberly’s.

The next morning we headed toward Kings Canyon and came by some local people with a broken down car. We stopped to assist, and in our communications I was kind of dazzled at the mix of traditional communication going on like sign language (people were spread out a bit) and drawing in the sand, and us giving a lend of our satellite phone so they could call people in their community for help. Their peaceful nature and cheer-fullness had me wanting to hang out under the roadside trees with them while they waited. ahhh, so yes Liam one does need to carry enough water for self and people you meet on the road !

Kings Canyon - wow another stunning place, though by the time we got here I started noticing signs of a real tourist circus going on, well if we are to head to Uluru - Kata Tjuta we are going to be part of it.

Later that evening while the sun was setting on Uluru we set up camp. The next morning Kaiden and I woke up at 5:15am and headed into the Park to watch the sunrise on Uluru. we lined up at the gate in the dark to buy our tickets and arrived at a sunrise viewing area, there were traffic controllers, tour buses of all shapes and sizes, and people spilled out onto the side of the road readying themselves for the event. It was stunning to see the different shades and changes in the rock.

In the morning we went on a guided tour, and learnt even more about why so many flock to this place, and can understand a certain attractor, particularly the terrapsychology of Uluru. I am also inspired to hear our guide notice less and less people are coming to climb and more people are coming to learn about Tjukurpa (~spiritual heritage and traditional law) and spiritual nature of the place. I hope that people can also be inspired to learn about the stories of their place, the land where they live. Certainly the dominant culture needs some new stories, new myths to live by.

Nicole and I were both overwhelmed by the amount of fascinating information and learning here Uluru - Kata Tjuta. A ticket gives you 3 days yet this can only give the smallest of glimpses of what there is to inspire and relish in.

Another side of Uluru is that where there are hoards of tourists eating fried foods there is an abundance of vegetable oil !! .... me happy !! When diesel is about $1.60/L I do wonder why local people are not using waste vegetable oil ?

Yesterday we found some desert grevillea’s in flower and enjoyed licking them, I placed a few flowers in my drink bottle to make a honey flavoured cordial, nice and refreshing during a walk at Kata Tjuta.

Sunset at Kata Tjuta was like many sights here – stunning.

Today we plan to do some more walking at Uluru then make our way through Alice and onwards through the Tanami Desert.

We had an extra night in Maree waiting for the roads to open, the springs had to wait.

The trak from Maree to Williams Creek was interesting, lots of mud holes and sticky sections. The mound springs and coward springs was a welcomed break from the short amount of driving. Jamala and Kaiden loved the spring 'spa' in the desert. It was refreshing and at just the right temperature.

Onwards William Creek and Oodnadatta we past much variation in landscape and vegetation, oh and water laying on the gibber plains. I am begining to think I had taken a wrong turn somewhere and that we are now in a vast wetland area of Australia more than arid !

At Oodnadatta we wondered if we would go through the Painted Desert or head into Witijira National Park. We headed south and discovered the Painted Desert road was closed (more rain). Turning off the main trak and onto the four wheel drive trail into Witijira was a marked difference in road conditions, however the scenery and ever changing landscape was spectacular. A long this stretch we knew from travellers in Oodnadatta that they got bogged twice and needing to winch themselves out. So I was being cautious with gear selection as we crossed the many muddy water crossings. Our car and trailer before long was coated in yet more mud, towards the end of the trail Nicole had lost all vision out of her window that provided some welcomed shade.

Along the trail we were pleased to find Sturt's Desert Pea, something we wanted to see for a long while. Everything was so green and lots in flower. There was also a great diversity in reptiles and more flocks of budgies.

We looked forward to a swim at Dalhousie Springs to help soak in some more water. This spring was far from refreshing at 37-40 degrees, more like a hot bath in the baking sun ! None-the-less we went for a swim, all except Jamala. It was not long before I was feeling lathagic and could easily drift around in the spring until, well I guess I amy slip into a coma or something?

Feeling more tired than before I dragged my weary self up to the camp site to do some fun jobs like changing the brakes on the car and other maintenance work. Laying under the car in the mud, and heat after a swim in 37+ degree water, just wasn't giving me that refresh I was craving.... then I remembered I put a coopers beer in the freezer ! Yep that did it prefectly. Meanwhile, Nicole discovered cold showers at the camp ground.

Later that evening, a storm started to brew, Nicole witnessed the most spectacular lighting stike she had ever seen. Before long we sat around eating our dinner in the tent as the storm and rain passed over. We then had just enough time to cook some oranges filled with chocolate cake in the fire before the next storm cell came, it brang more rain than the last and the fire was over. We were all tired at 9:30pm anyway. HHHmmmmmmm rain at Lake Eyre and now more on the edge of the Simpson Desert, I am wondering about our late start to the Kimberlies, I know it is going to be hot, but wondering about how much rain might be up there in October?

Next is a tale of winching and a long day .... we are in Alice now

Flinders and outback SA

After another hard drive into strong headwinds we arrived at Wilpena Pound – WOW !! This place is stunning, the rock climbing looks superb, the rock resembling something between Grampians sandstone and Arapiles Quartzite, this place is a feast for the eyes. A walk to the lookout revealed a great diversity of reptiles, every bend on the walk presented us with a new little beasty to say hello to and marvel at.

On the oil front, I missed it by five minutes….. yes, it was cleared from the bistro 5 mins before asking ….

North Flinders was also spectacular wonderful camping and amazing scenic driving through valleys and gorges.

We loved camping at Farina not far from the ghost town. It had very welcomed fire warmed showers. I also manged to fix the leaking oil filtering system ... hooray !!

Lake Eyre

Camping at Mulroonia Station (near Lake Eyre) was fantastic by a waterhole full of birdlife. The drive to the lake was easy going although the wind was up and the visibility was low because of the dust. As we wondered out into the basin, I noticed how seductive this wildscape was, it felt as if I could just keep on walking into the vast interior, not unlike the draw of a deep rainforest gully or paddling along a river. I just felt like going forever. The dust in the air added to the ambience of the place and took the edge off the sun.

Back to camp we heard about a serve weather warning, seeming it was on dusk we figure there was not much we could do about that. I mean, where would we go? There was no place to hide from a storm out here. It was due at 8pm, and that is when the storm hit …. The predicted 90km/hr winds and rain seemed spot on !!

It began with a dust storm that saw Kaiden take cover under the bedsheets as it blew through our tent. Then the rain came – wow… I never expected to have rain at Lake Eyre of all places in Australia ! The storm continued through to sometime past midnight after I had fallen asleep.

I am now enjoying the birdlife around the waterhole and waiting for the roads to re-open. The roads are wet and sticky….. We are longing Coward Springs to soak the dirt and dust off, and perhaps rehydrate through osmosis.

SPOKE TOO SOON, the roads are closed today .... we were lucky to make it back to Maree they are very sticky and wet !!

Oh and to those who have been trying to contact us on our sat phone. The car antenna is operational. Also as a habit we are going to start to switch the phone on by the camp fire once we set up. One thing to remember with satellite phones is that we need open sky to communicate with satellites, unlike a standard mobile phone which will work inside or under tree cover. There are also a few satellites that are out of service creating gaps in signals, I will post a link to a site that predicts the best time to ring for our location

Tues 8 Sept, BARRIER HWY somewhere between Cobar and Wilcannia … brewing a coffee enjoying the setting moon and first light of the day, a 64 year old sailor towing a 6 berth yacht pulled into the rest stop to share a coffee. I was inspired to hear his stories of travel when his children were as young as Kaiden and Jamala, traveling around Australia and sailing. Relishing in freedom and family seemed to be this man’s life more than working, suddenly 64 and not much has changed.

Hooraayyy, we made it to Sunny’s place in outback Menindee. We had a great time meeting Sunny’s family, Phil and Brighton. Kaiden enjoyed his time there, especially with so many of Brighton’s toys to play with and Sunny’s book reading time. Jamala giggled away at the cat that has kind of made itself home there. What an amazing little town. The children in the town were so friendly and curious, a delight to meet.

We got to see the lakes and even a little bit of water, with Pelicans and gulls in sight.

Thankfully we were all at Sunny’s as Kaiden, Jamala and I suffered a relapse of Gastro, and appreciated having a domestic toilet nearby a comfortable bed. A big thanks to Sunny, Phil and Brighton for having us, showing around and looking after us in sickness ….see you guys in Nimbin next!!

Silverton was an interesting and familiar town …. Familiar I guess that many films have been shot here like “mad max” along with an enormous number of advertisements.

We are now in Broken Hill after a very slow drive into strong winds. Vege oil hunting has been great in this town, 600 litres plus of very clean oil!! …. Way more than we can carry, and so have enough vege oil to get us beyond Flinders Ranges. So after a bit of filtering we’ll head into SA !!

While we have been having all this fun, the contract on our house has gone out and exchange should happen on Monday…. Probably would have happened earlier if our solicitor was able to contact us early in the week.

After a rough and hectic start, we are on our way. Rough, I mean, while doing the last of the cleaning and packing Nicole was vomiting, then when we got up onto the tablelands near midnight I (Brett) needed to pull over on the side of the road and found myself rolling around on the damp grass on the side of the road vomiting and wondering if I was going to be able to get back up again.. Does it get any better than this, the Australian dream holiday ? ?

The next day we arrived in Dubbo with a few things to sort out. First my new ‘on the road’ vege oil filtering system has several leaks – and not a pretty sight !! Also our new satellite phone has not turned up at the Dubbo post office as expected and now need to wait until Monday. This is all good. It gives us time to re-organise the packing, fix the leaking filtering system, and to collect a little vege oil to top back up again.

DUBBO ZOO !! …. When we arrived at Dubbo Zoo we were overwhelmed with the size of the place, luckily a ticket buys two days to explore it. On a 6km road circuit there are many pedestrian/bike circuits. Wild African and Asian animals set among the Australian bush which is kind of strange to see. Like Gibbons swinging from Eucs, Maned Wolves in Cypress Pine forest, and Zebras grazing among an open Mugga Ironbark/Cypress forest (Penny: we may have needed to do some extra veg plots in the Zoo for the Dapper nomination when we were out here !!).

Kaiden absolutely loved the place and turned his desire for “I want to go home” to “I love holidays”. The animal enclosures are well thought out, and the experience is an open one, many enclosures have either a deep ditch or mote around them giving an illusion that the animals are accessible right in front of you. Though I suspect that a 5 metre gap between us and the Cheetah is a different kind of illusion. Considering a Cheetah can reach speeds of 110km/h, surely then a 5 metre leap would be not much of a challenge for this beasty?

The Galapagos Tortoises captivated us all, one tortoise was around 100 years old leaving her with about another 50 years of life ahead. Kaiden loved giving them a scratch and a pat. They reflected for me the whole idea of slowness and presence, and reminded me of human movements like slow food, and our own idea of slow travel.

Day 2 at the zoo…. Kaiden and Nicole handfeed the Giraffes which was pretty exciting for the both of them. Jamala was mesmerized by the Giraffes as they too seemed to stare back at her, perhaps curious about her unstoppable giggles. Kaiden was sad to leave the zoo with the understanding that our ticket was for only 2 days. His spirits lifted again as soon as he went on a vege oil hunt with Daddy ! It seems oil is plentiful in Dubbo just laying around in the open out the back of restaurants.

Change of plans

With some illness and unforeseen delays we are changing our plans, and have decided to venture into corner country at another time, perhaps when we have gone full circle?

So now we plan to head to Dubbo Zoo, then Menindee to visit Sunny and family, then onwards to Findlers Ranges and Lake Eyre



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First planned route through NSW

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